Deodhani festival is a three day long festival which is celebrated at the intersection of 'Sawan' and 'Bhado' month as per the Assamese calendar. Situated atop the Nilachal Hills, the Kamakhya Temple in Guwahati is dedicated to Goddess Kamakhya, a consort of Lord Shiva. The temple is considered to be the principle seat of the Hindu cult of Shakti. The temple comes alive with the celebration of the Deodhani Festival which forms the core of rituals related to worship of Ma Manasha (Serpentine Goddess). During the festival the temple is full of drum beats and priests chanting prayers.
Two Deodhas dancing at the Deodhani Festival
The Deodha of Lord Shiva
The temple dancers or 'Deodhas' get possessed by spirits of Hindu Gods and Goddesses. The Deodhas dance to drum beats which are continuously played by drum groups. There is no uniform dance form, but each Deodha dances as per the dance form of the God or Goddess who has possessed him. The male temple dancers are smeared with colour and sacrificial blood. The Deodhas also carry the swords of the corresponding God and Goddess. The preparations of the festival starts a month back, when the Deodhas leave their home and start sleeping nearby the temple of the corresponding God or Goddess who is going to possess him. The Deodhas consume boiled rice and vegetables and no form of non veg is allowed. A slightest mistake in following the rituals would lead to the God or Goddess being angry on him and not getting possessed to him and which is believed to be inauspicious for the particular Deodha. One of highlighted moment of the entire festival is when the Deodhas get up on the sharp end of 'Dao' (a form of Assamese sword) and dances above it without hurting himself. Three or more Deodhas get up on the Dao and whose number and person is selected by the mutual agreement of all the Deodhas. The Deodhas defy their age and health during the course of the festival. There are several Deodhas who are senior citizens and they too get up on the Dao bearing all risks, only for the devotion to Goddess Kamakhya. Before getting up on the Dao, they take the blessings from Goddess Kamakhya and also young girls (Kumari's). They believe the Goddess Kamakhya resides in the heart of the young girls and so seeking their blessings is significant. During the course of the festival, offerings of goats and pigeons are made, which is because of the belief that they get supernatural powers from the Goddess. They also drink the blood of the offerings they make. After the death or default of any old Deodha, a new person gets possessed by the God or Goddess. While he can be recognized by the sudden movements that are caused by the possession, still he is being questioned with certain questions about the Goddess to establish his authenticity of the purpose.
Another Deodha
A Deodha dancing to the drum beats
The Deodhas roaming around the Kamakhya Temple with the Kumaris leading their way.
After the dance they take three rounds around the temple and take some rest. Visitors meet the Deodhas and seek their blessings during this time. On the last day, the festival continues till dawn. The Deodas have to get their possessed God and Goddess leave their body. It is painful to watch the session and it continues for hours. The family members of the Deodhas go in to tears seeing their near and dear one in such pain. The Deodhas leave their temple and start staying at their home after few days of the end of Deodhani festival.
A Deodha standing on the sharp dend of Dao.
Another Deodha
It is believed that seeking blessings from the Deodhas can get your long dreamt wishes fulfilled and so visitors visit the temple and wait for the Deodhas to take rest and seek their blessings.
Two Deodhas dancing
A Deodha with his sword
My maternal Grandfathers elder brother Late Shiva Das, was the Deodha of Goddess Dakshina Kali for nearly 50 years and till his death until 2 years back, he was performing all the rituals without any dint. Just before the last Deodhani festival, he had a small accident and couldn't walk properly. On the day of Deodhani, he danced with the sword on one hand and a stick to support his broken leg on the other.
Another Deodha with his sword
My mother's Grandfather, Late Faguna Das was the Deodha of Goddess Chalanta. While he was on his early forties, on the first day of Deodhani he expired. When he was laid for his cremation the Deodhani drums started to beat. To everyone's amaze, he stood up from the pyre and ran to the temple where his sword was kept. He danced till the end. After the festival was over he returned home. My grandmother who was the youngest daughter says she was very delighted to see him back. I know most of you shall find it hard to believe, but I myself have spoken to a few of the funeral visitors and everyone has said the same story. While most of the funeral visitors are themselves dead, the ones who are alive are very old and they still get amazed when they recall the incident. He lived for near about thirty years after the incident and was the Deodha of Goddess Chalanta till his death.
Kamakhya resides in the heart of Guwahati city and it is well connected by public and as well as rented cabs. Two new hotels have also come up for accommodation. Kamakhya is well known for the homestay facility provided by the locals where they welcome every guest with their heart. The kitchens of Kamakhya are famous for the delicacies that are cooked in them.
In the year 1489, when Sankardeva reached Kochbehar, the then King of Koch - Rajbangshi dynasty Maharaja Naranarayan requested him to preach and spread the teachings of the Neo-Vaishnava cult. In his honour, the king built the Satra in the 16th century. Guru Sankardeva breathed his last at this Satra in the year 1568. The present Satra has been innaugrated by the then Cheif Minister of Assam Bimala Chandra Chaliha in the presence of the then Cheif Minister of West Bengal Prafulla C Sen. Lakshmikanta Mahanta is the present Satradhikar of the Satra.
We started our journey early morning from Beparipatty, Gauripur. We anticipated a huge rush and hence started early. We were excited to head towards the place with such religious sanctity. We reached Kochbehar after a journey of 3 hours and headed towards Madhupur More in a shared tempo. To our astonishment, there wasn't even a single gate showing the entrance to the Satra. After being dropped by the tempo, we enquired with several local shops if we were on the correct path or not. We never imagined a place with such religious importance without a gate. We headed towards the Satra in an electric rickshaw, locally known by the name 'Toto'.
The view of Madhupur More. There isn't any gate to welcome you to the Satra. Electric Rickshaws stand there to facilitate your conveyance to the Satra.
The gate just outside the Satra
There are a couple of bookstalls outside the Satra which has books of Sankardeva and his teachings. These stalls also hold several things for worship at the Satra.
Book stalls and hand carts outside the Satra.
The view of Madhupur Satra
The Kirtan Ghar of MadhupurSatra
Some preachings of Sankardeva inscribed on the walls of the Satra
A side view of the Satra
Another view of the Satra walls
The Satra also holds a lamp which has been lighting since about five hundred years
With an young priest of the Temple
We were disappointed to see only few devotees there. The Satradhikar and other priests of the Satra welcomed us whole heartedly and they also asked us for an overnight halt. The Satradhikar spoke to us on various religious issues and also shared various facets and memoirs associated with the Satra. We were really motivated to hear him speak. We sat beside him and listened to him; an aura of positivity soon surrounded us.
Satradhikar Lakshmikanta Mahanta speaking with devotees who visited the Satra
Satradhikar Lakshmkanta Mahanta speaking to one of the devotees
The famous Gunamala (গুণমালা) which was written by Sankardeva in one night as per the request of Koch King Naranarayana is also preserved in this sacred place. The book contains rhyming and sonorous verses and it is considered as a handbook of Bhagwata Purana. The historical significance of the book goes back to a debate between King Naranarayana and his pandits. When the court poets asked for a condensed version of the entire ten cantos of the Bhagwata Purana overnight, all the poets refused. However Sankardeva took the challenge and accomplished it. The booklet was kept in a wooden box, painted yellow and red and elephant was drawn within the circumference of the circle. He signified that he had squeezed an elephant into a lime pot (হাতী মাৰি ভুৰুকাত ভৰোৱা). He exhibited his extraordinary skills of breivity and impressed King Naranarayana. The last remains of Sankardeva and Madhavdeva are preserved here. There are also certain important things like the Paduka's of Sankardeva and the bronze pen used by him. These last remains are displayed twice in a year. Once in the time of Rash and the next in the anniversary of the first Satradhikar, which is two or three days before Saraswati Puja. Another important fact of this place is that the first ten Satradhikar's of this place left for heir heavenly abode on the same day.
Satradhikar Lakshmikanta Mahanta also spoke about the various problems the Satra was facing. He was disappointed that there were very few visitors to the Satra. He expressed that he would have been delighted if more visitors visited the place. He also said that the financial support towards a place that holds high historical importance of Assamese culture is very low and that it needs more support from the government. The Satradhikar is suffering from kidney ailments and he also expressed his disappointment that nobody visits the Satra to enquire about his health. He was hospitalized a few days back in Guwahati Medical College and Hospital (G.M.C.H) and there were handful of visitors to visit him.
Madhupur Satra is one of those places which holds high importance, both for the followers of Hindu Dharma as well as for the Assamese culture. The place with such sanctity is now facing scarcity of recognition. This place is also important hotspot for tourism for people from Assam.
I touch the feet of my parents before leaving, not because of any fear, but because of respect. I also have scientific justification for it, and that's what probably is being looked for. As per modern science, the right side of our body consists of positive and the left side of our body consists of negative energy. When I bow in front of my parents and touch their feet, our vertical body are in opposite direction. The left side of the body stands in front of the right side. We have the custom of touching our parents feet with crossed hands, thus allowing both forms of energy to flow in an uniformed circuit. When my parents bless me my placing their right hand over my head, their is the formation of a complete circle and which allows complete flow of positive energy.
There is a custom of visiting temple on Amavasya day and the concept of Ekadashi fasting. There is close relation between the moon and the human mind. Our mind is in its strongest form on a full moon day and weakest form on a no-moon day. To keep away from negative thoughts, people visit temples on a no-moon day. Also, what we consume is actually reflected on its fourth day. Non vegetarian items lead to negative thoughts in us. To avoid from negative thoughts it is advised to take fruits on the eleventh day, as that would help in developing positive thoughts four days later on the day of Amavasya.
The principles of Veda's and Upanishad's are the revelation of eternal truth which are based on the realization of the Sadhu's. Santana Dharma is an inter-phase of both science and religion.
