Sunday, August 26, 2018

Deodhani Festival - Kamakhya Temple

Deodhani festival is a three day long festival which is celebrated at the intersection of 'Sawan' and 'Bhado' month as per the Assamese calendar. Situated atop the Nilachal Hills, the Kamakhya Temple in Guwahati is dedicated to Goddess Kamakhya, a consort of Lord Shiva. The temple is considered to be the principle seat of the Hindu cult of Shakti. The temple comes alive with the celebration of the Deodhani Festival which forms the core of rituals related to worship of Ma Manasha (Serpentine Goddess). During the festival the temple is full of drum beats and priests chanting prayers.

Two Deodhas dancing at the Deodhani Festival

The Deodha of Lord Shiva


The temple dancers or 'Deodhas' get possessed by spirits of Hindu Gods and Goddesses. The Deodhas dance to drum beats which are continuously played by drum groups. There is no uniform dance form, but each Deodha dances as per the dance form of the God or Goddess who has possessed him. The male temple dancers are smeared with colour and sacrificial blood. The Deodhas also carry the swords of the corresponding God and Goddess. The preparations of the festival starts a month back, when the Deodhas leave their home and start sleeping nearby the temple of the corresponding God or Goddess who is going to possess him. The Deodhas consume boiled rice and vegetables and no form of non veg is allowed. A slightest mistake in following the rituals would lead to the God or Goddess being angry on him and not getting possessed to him and which is believed to be inauspicious for the particular Deodha. One of highlighted moment of the entire festival is when the Deodhas get up on the sharp end of 'Dao' (a form of Assamese sword) and dances above it without hurting himself. Three or more Deodhas get up on the Dao and whose number and person is selected by the mutual agreement of all the Deodhas. The Deodhas defy their age and health during the course of the festival. There are several Deodhas who are senior citizens and they too get up on the Dao bearing all risks, only for the devotion to Goddess Kamakhya. Before getting up on the Dao, they take the blessings from Goddess Kamakhya and also young girls (Kumari's). They believe the Goddess Kamakhya resides in the heart of the young girls and so seeking their blessings is significant. During the course of the festival, offerings of goats and pigeons are made, which is because of the belief that they get supernatural powers from the Goddess. They also drink the blood of the offerings they make. After the death or default of any old Deodha, a new person gets possessed by the God or Goddess. While he can be recognized by the sudden movements that are caused by the possession, still he is being questioned with certain questions about the Goddess to establish his authenticity of the purpose.



Another Deodha


A Deodha dancing to the drum beats
The Deodhas roaming around the Kamakhya Temple with the Kumaris leading their way.

After the dance they take three rounds around the temple and take some rest. Visitors meet the Deodhas and seek their blessings during this time. On the last day, the festival continues till dawn. The Deodas have to get their possessed God and Goddess leave their body. It is painful to watch the session and it continues for hours. The family members of the Deodhas go in to tears seeing their near and dear one in such pain. The Deodhas leave their temple and start staying at their home after few days of the end of Deodhani festival.  



A Deodha standing on the sharp dend of Dao.


Another Deodha

It is believed that seeking blessings from the Deodhas can get your long dreamt wishes fulfilled and so visitors visit the temple and wait for the Deodhas to take rest and seek their blessings.



Two Deodhas dancing


A Deodha with his sword


My maternal Grandfathers elder brother Late Shiva Das, was the Deodha of Goddess Dakshina Kali for nearly 50 years and till his death until 2 years back, he was performing all the rituals without any dint. Just before the last Deodhani festival, he had a small accident and couldn't walk properly. On the day of Deodhani, he danced with the sword on one hand and a stick to support his broken leg on the other.


Another Deodha with his sword


My mother's Grandfather, Late Faguna Das was the Deodha of Goddess Chalanta. While he was on his early forties, on the first day of Deodhani he expired. When he was laid for his cremation the Deodhani drums started to beat. To everyone's amaze, he stood up from the pyre and ran to the temple where his sword was kept. He danced till the end. After the festival was over he returned home. My grandmother who was the youngest daughter says she was very delighted to see him back. I know most of you shall find it hard to believe, but I myself have spoken to a few of the funeral visitors and everyone has said the same story. While most of the funeral visitors are themselves dead, the ones who are alive are very old and they still get amazed when they recall the incident. He lived for near about thirty years after the incident and was the Deodha of Goddess Chalanta till his death.


Kamakhya resides in the heart of Guwahati city and it is well connected by public and as well as rented cabs. Two new hotels have also come up for accommodation. Kamakhya is well known for the homestay facility provided by the locals where they welcome every guest with their heart. The kitchens of Kamakhya are famous for the delicacies that are cooked in them.

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